Maharajas’ jewels | Mines to Market

How do the men of today feel about wearing jewellery? Visitors will have a chance to ask themselves the question at the forthcoming edition of GemGenève, which runs from 8 to 11 May 2025 in Palexpo Halls 1 and 2. Historically speaking, men from all sorts of cultures and religious backgrounds have always worn jewellery, from the earliest prehistoric shell necklaces to the Maharajas’ jewels of the twentieth century; traditionally, it served to denote status, rank or some form of community affiliation. however, the days of men’s jewellery being worn solely as a symbol of power and wealth appear to have gone for good. The rebirth of jewellery for men since the 2010s “is actually due to another factor altogether: men have changed the way they relate to jewels and jewellery in general,” argues GemGenève co-founder Ronny Totah. Today, men account for up to 30% of jewellery purchases from certain collections by brands and independent craftsmen and women, and the ninth incarnation of GemGenève will have plenty in store for men in search of jewels and other items of jewellery. With a special focus on unisex jewellery, the forthcoming edition of the event will be inviting visitors to rediscover – and perhaps reconsider – men’s jewellery. THE ART OF BROOCH-WEARING Mathieu Dekeukelaire, director, GemGenève Mathieu Dekeukelaire (who has worked alongside the two families that co-founded GemGenève right from the very first edition of the event) readily acknowledges a sense of pride at having played a role in the success of “a tradeshow unlike any other.” After joining the organising team in 2019, his love for jewels and innovative jewellery has grown with each successive edition. Unable to resist the temptation of acquiring at least one item for himself every year at Palexpo, this ‘lover of fine things’ explains that he’s often fallen for jewels because they’ve provided just the right wow effect, adding elegance and originality to an otherwise informal style. Here, he reveals some of his favourite pieces and tells us how and when he likes to wear his jewellery. Are brooches for men making a comeback? More and more men have been wearing brooches over the past few years – just as they used to back in ancient times, in fact. In that sense, there’s nothing especially modern about it. What’s new is the way in which men are wearing them nowadays : either as part of their smartest outfits or with more casual wear; and in recent years, men wearing jewellery have become a more familiar sight via the twin worlds of fashion and social media. Why do you like brooches in particular? You’re right that brooches are one of my favourite jewellery items ! For one thing, I find they’re an easy way of adding a touch of elegance to a piece of clothing or indeed an entire outfit. The other thing I love is the way brooches offer you an incredible amount of freedom in just how you wear them. You can stay ‘traditional’ by wearing a brooch on a jacket – or be more daring by putting one on a sweater or a hoodie. Brooches work really well as style disruptors, creating an unconventional look without taking too many risks. Putting a brooch on the lapel of the plainest of shirts can create a discreet but stylish effect. What’s your advice on choosing a brooch? I’ve always been drawn to pretty things – and all the style and expertise they enshrine. That said, actually buying a brooch involves a little mental exercise: imagining the kind of occasion when you might wear it, which outfit it would go with, and so on; I find that to be an important part of the purchasing decision. I always go with my instinct, whether I’m drawn to a particular design or an especially fine piece of craftsmanship. Tell us about your favourite brooches! Well, there’s my very first one – a brooch with an amethyst that I picked up at the Geneva flea market. I really like understated pieces with something a little offbeat about them. The most recent one I bought is a Lacloche – not at all flashy, but very elegant. And then there’s whatever I find next – an Art Deco double clip perhaps, preferably a Cartier ! Some day... What about a ‘love at first sight’ find? Brooches aside, I was really blown away by the pair of ear pendants designed by Claire Choisne in 2023 for Boucheron’s Carte blanche More is More collection. At first glance they’re a very feminine item, but they can be repurposed as a much more casual unisex accessory : hoodie strings ! That’s precisely the kind of fun touch I look for in jewellery : bringing it to life by taking a different approach, wearing it in a radically different way to that intended. MEN AND THEIR JEWELS Shavarsh Hakobian, a GemGenève revelation The Armenian craftsman will be back at GemGenève this coming May, exhibiting his highly original jewellery in the Designers’ Village. While Shavarsh Hakobian describes all of his pieces as ‘gender- neutral’, he also concedes that many of his customers are men. So, what kind of men wear his jewellery? Crafting jewellery for men My jewellery is inherently gender-neutral – not because I deliberately set out to create unisex pieces, but as a side- effect of my creative process. I work instinctively, drawing inspiration on the spur of the moment from things in my surroundings. It’s all about giving my imagination free rein to wander as it pleases. As I work, I don’t think about the final wearer of the piece at all; I never ask myself whether an item is destined for men or women, or wonder what sort of person might wear it. Instead, I focus entirely on giving substance to the idea in my mind: the concept, shape and complex details of the jewellery itself. It’s an immense source of satisfaction to see that my pieces resonate with men and women alike. Giving men a way of saying something about themselves Where I come from, men wearing jewellery is part and parcel of the culture : rings, bracelets, chains, medallions and cross pendants are among the most frequently seen. Traditionally, they’re made only of gold and often feature diamonds or other precious stones, but all of my male customers are keen to break with that tradition. They’re drawn to my output by my distinctive designs and combinations of materials, finding they echo their individual personalities. Increasingly daring tastes At first, my male clients tended to go for my more minimalistic pieces: sober lines, discreet volumes and neutral tones such as dark wood with white gold, or brown leather with yellow gold. This still applies today to some extent – many favour jewellery featuring gold paired with wood or leather – but I’ve seen a fascinating change in recent years, with men becoming more adventurous in their choices : adopting more daring styles, exploring surprising shapes and experimenting with colour. As someone who’s both a designer and a wearer of jewellery myself, it’s an inspiring development – spurring me on, offering fresh insights and pushing my creativity still further as I make my own contribution to this trend. Jewellery as part of everyday wear I see jewels as more than mere accessories; they’re an intimate statement about the wearer. In my artistic approach, jewellery is for the special moments in life rather than for everyday wear: destined to become cherished family heirlooms, mementos or even sculptural items for show. Despite this, my customers often wear it in more mundane settings, making their jewellery part of their personal style – and turning each piece into something really unique as they do so. ARMAN SUCIYAN Men’s jewellery takes centre stage at the Designers’ Village Curated by Nadège Totah, the Designers’ Village features jewelsmiths who are already well-established on the market alongside emerging talents as yet ‘below the radar’. This year, visitors will be able to discover some ten artisans, among them Turkish jewelsmith Arman Suciyan, whose work is increasingly being noticed in the world of men’s jewellery. Born in Istanbul in 1972, Arman Suciyan took his first steps in the profession at the age of 15 when he learned the trade of goldsmith. He completed his apprenticeship in a workshop run by a Turkish- Armenian family of jewellers that had been in business for four generations. In 1994, Suciyan embarked on a course at the Kent Institute of Art and Design, where he developed a more sculptural vision of jewellery – and in doing so, put his career on an international footing. While in England, he began working for British jeweller Stephen Webster in a partnership that was to last for ten years. Having won a number of honours (including a Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Award), in 2004 Arman Suciyan decided to concentrate on his own work. After spending a few years in Milan, he returned to Istanbul and set up his own studio there. Utilitarian jewellery comes in from the cold Suciyan’s collections include several lines devised with men in mind. These jewels are utilitarian accessories that can be used as a belt buckle – or equally well as cufflinks. Fashioned with all the elegance of fine jewellery, Arman Suciyan’s belt buckles are a reminder that over and above its practical uses, men’s jewellery is a way of asserting character, establishing one’s personality – or simply adding a distinctive style note. Rings: the quintessential piece of men’s jewellery In 2020, Vogue magazine celebrated Arman Suciyan’s Dragon Knot rings in an article entitled The Best Men’s Jewellery. Working mostly with silver, bronze and gold offset by precious stones, the jewelsmith devised four collections of rings, drawing on several sources of inspiration and developing a unique style language in the process, with pieces borrowing from postwar automobile design features such as outsize radiator grilles, pointed fins and bulging headlights. Feminity vs virility Featuring smooth, gloss, matte and satin polish finishes, Arman Suciyan’s creations run the whole gamut of textures, from rough to gentle. While some may describe the resulting tones as ‘feminine’ or ‘masculine’, others see them simply as defining a ‘contemporary’ style of jewellery in step with its times that anyone can wear irrespective of gender, breaking down the barrier between the sexes.

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